Saturday, 30 June 2012

The best of Resort 2013 collections: Alexander McQueen

Take just one look at the Alexander McQueen Resort 2013 collection and you'll instantly be able to tell where Sarah Burton got her inspiration from. Androgynous model, extreme proportions, slender silhouettes, long legs and sharp shoulders- it could only be David Bowie. McQueen himself designed pieces for Bowie in the past, so this collection would most likely be revered by the man himself. The most Bowie-like looks are the masculine sharp suits, mostly sticking to the classic black and white palette. A far cry from Burton's last collection F/W RTW 2012, and many previous similar, which were much more feminine and in her words, "sickly-sweet". A deliberate juxtaposition makes this collection even more striking. Traditional established McQueen elements are still there, gold and black in particular, perhaps to keep up the dark, mysterious glamour of the House of McQueen, and floor-length dresses are a key point- a staple for someone like Burton who, as we all know, does a gown like no other. Note again the occasional use of the drape instead of properly wearing a jacket, or in this case, Bowie blazer, something which is cropping up in collection after collection. However for me, the most fascinating thing about this collection is the lengths. Elongated legs coupled with a high, accentuated waist- a la Bowie- complement the trouser suits, which can also be seen with 7/8th lengths in the more extravagant styles. A new shape appears- knees pointed outwards, bandy legged- in both casual black and brocade floral. Burton calls this the "banana leg". Pioneering, just like the person this collection was inspired by.

Thursday, 28 June 2012

The best of Resort 2013 collections: Lanvin

Alber Elbaz's Resort 2013 collection was shown in a grand gold-gilded room, but the clothes were offset by an angled white background. This deliberate setting was to portray the simplistic elegance of the clothes whilst also hinting to that high-fashion grandeur luxury that only comes with a Lanvin label. Key trends to note here include stripes, jewel tones, metallics and peplums, which suggest that this mini-trend of extra material bunched up at the waist or hemline has some serious staying power. Accessories are fundamental this season and Elbaz has paid a lot of attention to handbags in particular. Chains, collars, cuffs and-bizzarely- visors are big players in this collection, especially with the more elaborate looks. And also, notice the new way to wear coats- 'The Drape'- gracefully spread over the shoulders without the arms through the sleeves. Expect to see the drape everywhere this Autumn and by the looks of things, right through until next Spring.

Lanvin Resort 2013:

Monday, 25 June 2012

The best of Resort 2013 collections: Marchesa

Marchesa is a modern day red-carpet staple. And with their Resort 2013 collection, it's easy to see why. The typical Marchesa glamour is all there- sweeping floor-length gowns of tulle and lace, silky smooth column dresses in shocking pinks and deep blues and diamond, feathered and peplum embellishments- only with more drama and romance. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig were inspired by English gardens, which explains the pastelly hues and floral tinges. Expect to see these dresses on the red-carpet any time soon.

Marchesa Resort 2013:

Thursday, 21 June 2012

Yves Saint Laurent no more

Highly regarded as one of the finest names in high fashion luxury, Yves Saint Laurent is on par with the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Versace as one of the biggest players in the fashion industry, with a colourful history to match. But today it was revealed that YSL will be getting a radical makeover under new creative director Hedi Slimane, including- controversially- a brand new name.  Yves Saint Laurent will now be known as Saint Laurent Paris.

Yves Saint Laurent

Originally, the YSL ready-to-wear collection was named Saint Laurent River Gauche when Mr Saint Laurent himself launched it in 1966. Considered a genius in the fashion world, he is the man we women have to thank for trousers, tuxedo suits, transparent fabrics and ethnic models on the catwalk as well as rendering RTW reputable in a world where haute-couture ruled. In 1957 aged just 21, he took the helm at the House of Dior after Christian Dior succumbed to a massive heart attack. His designs were a huge success and his career was flourishing. However in 1960 he was conscripted into the French army and although he lasted only 20 days, Saint Laurent was left forever damaged by what he experienced there, recognising years later that it was this, and his subsequent firing from Dior, that led to drug addiction and mental health problems in later life. Despite his troubles, he was still a genius who arguably made more of an impact on fashion than anyone else in recent times, with the exception perhaps, in my opinion, of Coco Chanel and Lagerfeld. So how would he feel if he was alive today, with his classic, distinguished and acclaimed label getting a name change?

Hedi Slimane

Slimane has said that although the brand will now be known as Saint Laurent Paris, the change will be implemented between now and the time his debut collection as creative director- S/S 13- hits shops and that the original name Yves Saint Laurent will still be used for "institutional purposes". The classic YSL logo that is so easily recognisable will remain with Slimane apparently vowing not to change this or any fonts or recognisable features within YSL marketing and branding.

However, it appears this is not enough to placate outraged fashion lovers and fashion bloggers all over the world. YSL has been trending on Twitter on and off all day (21st June) and many have taken to the site to air their opinion on this controversial makeover. The general consensus is that it is a massive mistake and a betrayal to the legacy of a great man and great luxury label. 

Fuelling the fire is that fact that despite changing the name to Saint Laurent Paris, the design studio and creative team will no longer actually be based in Paris, instead, Slimane has relocated to Los Angeles.  So shouldn't that be Saint Laurent L.A then? Or are we all agreed that it will forever be Yves Saint Laurent to us? 

Wednesday, 20 June 2012

The best of Resort 2013 collections: Stella McCartney

Everything about the Stella McCartney Resort 2013 collection was typical McCartney. The food on offer was vegetarian, the jackets on show were oversized and the suits were tailored to perfection. McCartney has carved a niche for herself in a tempestuous industry- serene yet playful, organic yet stylish. The Resort 2013 collection perhaps shows this more than any other this year. Clean linens, delicate lace, and palette-cleansing whites counteracted the gaudy florals, leopard prints and pastel knitwear. McCartney focuses a lot on menswear-inspired tailoring due to her Saville Row past. Nobody else does wide-leg trousers and blazers quite like McCartney. This season her suits had a slight 70's tinge paired with brocade-like florals, granny tartan and knitted jumpers. As much as the tailoring took centre stage, it was the accessorising that caught my eye. Holographic shoes, clutch bags and ipad cases were the standout pieces for me. Sleek, stylish and so Stella McCartney.

Stella McCartney Resort 2013: